Where to Shop Now that Joann is Closed?

There's been much discussion about shopping for fabric and supplies ever since Joann (Formerly known as Joann Fabrics) announced the closing of approximately 500 of its 833 stores following a second bankruptcy filing in less than a year.

"Wherever will we get affordable fabric and notions?" seems to be the main concern as both Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Walmart and other chain crafts stores are still out there for yarn, crafting, and decorating bits and bobs, plus some crafting quality of fabric.

As a teen I worked in a Ben Franklin and the long-gone Clothworld. I never thought back then that I'd be a quilt shop owner. Though I would rather think of Sew Simple/AmyQuilts as a creative sewing center, since we do carry some garment fabrics, flannel, felted wool, and fabulous threads for hand embroidery. Not to mention our Janome sewing machines and top notch machine and stitching help.

500 stores.... I feel for the employees who will not only need to find new jobs, but those the public are used to seeing, the average employee on the floor, likely will be guilt tripped into staying until the stores lock their doors for the last time.

According to Comparably (,com), a business ranking website, those store employees earn an average of $22,001 per year. Admittedly, there were no details given as to how many hours the average store employee worked. Comparably went on to say,

"Comparably has a total of 3 salary records associated with Jo-Ann Stores employees. 416 employees at Jo-Ann Stores rank their Compensation in the Bottom 5% of similar sized companies on Comparably (based on 1244 ratings) while 407 employees at Jo-Ann Stores rank their Perks And Benefits in the Bottom 5% of similar sized companies on Comparably (based on 411 ratings)."

Of course, things looked better in the C-suite offices, where Wade Miquelon, the former CEO of Joann Fabrics, earned $2,740,178 in total compensation. This included a salary of $834,231, stock options of $1,275,651, stock of $626,247, and other compensation of $4,049. He left the company in May of 2023 and received a severance payment of $392,500 in cash.

An NPR report indicated some fabric shoppers will delve into thrifting and repurposing. I think that is great and certainly a fabulous form of sustainability. But unlike the article stated, it's far from the only option.

I specifically refer to a sustainable business model as we do see time and time again that when business' offer lower quality items at low prices and also embrace the use of coupons for 30-40% routinely, they are competing in a race to the lowest prices. That is not sustainable in the long run. At least not while JOANN was a publicly traded company. It hoped to see stock growth make up for low margins in the store. You really do not want to win a race to the bottom.

Yes, sales have a place in retail. Appropriate pricing models are important, as is making sure to offer customers what they want. JOANN certainly was no longer the large fabric store they used to be, instead adding more and more decorative items, crafts, yarn, beads, fake flowers, etc.

Most quilt shops do have regular sales or even a dedicated clearance section for those who shop with a smaller budget in mind or just love getting a deal. Some, like mine, offers a rewards program of some sort to give discounts to loyal shoppers. (Actually we do all of these things at Sew Simple home of AmyQuilts.com) We love helping new customers and beginners with classes, advice, and encouragement.

That glimmer though....

JOANN had 833 stores across the nation.

Did you know that there 4,547 quilt shops in the US?

That's 5.47 quilt shops for each of the previous 833 JOANN stores.

This number comes from the number of shops using the tax code designation for quilt shops. Arguably this number could vary quite a bit. But that's 4,547 shops calling themselves a quilt shop on their taxes. There could be more. Sadly, at the rate I'm seeing quilt shops close this past year, there could be fewer.

I can hear it now, "I need more than quilting fabric."

These shops are on their way to do one of 2 things. Deciding that they are working harder than ever for very little return, even if they enjoy it, and are thinking of getting out. Then there are other shops, maybe those run by younger people, who are actively looking for ways to grow, thrive, and intersect what they offer with what customers want. It's these shops that I hope and pray will convert JOANN shoppers to local independent creative sewing center shoppers.

These types of quilt shops are paying attention! They often have fabric suitable for certain garments; cotton lawn, canvas, linen blends, and other more drape-y woven cottons. They've got interfacing, thread, sewing machines, notions and more. Many will listen to their customers when they say they want something else and will bring it in if they can, or special order if needed in enough quantity. If they've been around long enough, they may have been fabric shops at first until quilting was the main thing left to them. I'm hoping we see them diversify and become creative sewing centers.

Many JOANN shoppers have commented that they will shop online instead.

According to Google, there are 3521 quilt shops with online shopping. A few of them are huge. One of the largest has alienated a portion of the quilting and sewing community with their stance on certain cultural issues. Many are small enough that they can help you shop online with them if desired. You just can't get that kind of service from the big discounting kind of shops.

One thing is for sure; these independent shops can't expand to serve a broader range of sewing interests without getting to know these shoppers. It can be a real "chicken versus the egg" kind of thing.

With 4,547 quilt shops across the country, I propose that you just might have more shops around you than you realize.

The average age of a quilt shop is just 5 years and 9 months and the number of shops have increased by almost 4% since 2003. Not a huge increase, but statistically, shops are coming and going fairly frequently. A sign that creative people love the idea of providing what they perceive people like them need. Unfortunately, also a sign that it doesn't make big bucks for the owners.

Ask around. Do a google search. These shops aren't as visible as a 10,000 square foot "big box" business, not just in size but also in marketing dollars. But they are out there. Sure, some might not be your "cup of tea" but there will be others that are. There are plenty that want to serve you up your favorite cup of tea, but they can't do that if they don't know you.

Additionally, if you are a quilter, you may find that your projects turn out better with the higher quality fabrics. (I know, I know, some will never be convinced of this.) Unless a quilt shop is serious about being a bargain style shop, they typically sell fabrics by companies who source their cottons (greige goods) from South Korea, Japan, India, Bali, and Pakistan where a better grade of these raw fabrics are used to then dye or print than Joanns did.

Even better, more and more cotton is being digitally printed in the USA. Without tariffs, these fabrics may no longer seem as expensive as in the past. (They likely will be printed on cotton milled overseas for a finer quality, but the final step done in the US will save against tarifs.) I've also read about a number of old textile plants in the US being brought back to life to weave denim, toweling, woolens, and other fabrics. That brings an even brighter glow to that glimmer. I did recently order a few bolts of quilting cotton solids from a company that makes them in the US. Sadly, it felt awful and will be going straight to my clearance section.

This is a conversation to be had with other creative makers, shoppers and shop owners. This is a chance to grow and learn together, to get to know people in your community, and to look at what does a sustainable creative hobby or even small cottage businesses and their suppliers look like as we go forward. Because we must continue to move forward, even if stitching seems like something from our past. We're making beauty out of the ordinary, and for many, engaging in a practice that has multiple mental health benefits.

My final thoughts on finding fabric and supplies in a post-Joann world:

If you only care about price in the current moment, stick to Am*zon, w*w*k, big box places, and the mega online suppliers like MO St*r & FQshop. (Yeah, I'm not spelling them out; they can do their own promotion.) I mention 'current moment' because these kinds of businesses can be competition killers, which eventually leads to higher prices.

If you might want a place with knowledgeable help, sewing machine support, classes, etc. search out your nearest couple of quilt/sewing shops. Let me toot my own horn in the hopes you are close enough to shop at Sew Simple of Lynchburg VA.

If these shops are limited, or don't have what you want, OR you want something in between for some combination of price/selection/knowledge/customer support, look for independent quilt/fabric shops that have a good online presence. Like AmyQuilts.com, my online shop.

A great place to not only learn, but to find a list of independent quilt shops is a FB group called "Nine Patch a Day" run by Karen Montgomery. She's a Jaftex brand ambassador, former quilt shop owner, a fabulous quilting instructor (a little traditional for some in fabric taste), a Creative Grids Ruler designer, and runs an educational retreat for shop owners- Sewposium. There's about 55 shops she works with including me. All of these cooperating shops have online stores, run special programs, and are committed to customer service. (If they don't do good customer service, they don't get to stay a "Sewposium shop" for long!)

I know pricing is usually a main concern, but it's nearly impossible to have quality products, knowledgeable suppliers, and good employees to help, without paying a bit more. What's that old slogan? "We cost a bit more, but we're worth it!"

What do you think? Am I off base? Be kind, but let me know in the comments.

Happy stitching,

Cheap Thread is No Bargain

As we do for all new machine customers, I had an embroidery machine lesson the other day with the owner of a new Janome 500e.

The owner is a delight and eager to learn, but when I saw the thread set he brought in, I cringed. It's a super cheap thread with claims of it being great and trash both in the reviews on Amazon where it usually is purchased. I think it's junk, but didn't want to start off with any negativity.

So I proceeded with my lesson. After going through threading and other basics, we moved to editing and combining designs on the machine. Then of course, we needed to stitch something out. I love doing lettering for a first lesson an an embroidery machine as large letters make for a great explanation of tension.

Top tension here is too tight.

Off we went, stitching with my student's thread. I was hoping to be wrong. Alas, the stitching looked awful. We changed the needle. Tried again. Ugh. So we decided to change the black thread to a different brand of thread in a gold color.

Just look at the difference! The cheap black thread didn't fill the spaces well and it stitched with a lot of loops and noise. What kind of noise? That rattling bobbin sound that makes your finger hover near the start/stop button. We used the same bobbin thread for both stitch outs.

He said, "This crap is going back to Amazon!"

This was a case of fast and cheap, but not good.

That thread? Starts with a B ends with -thread. Hate it. Quality is worth it every time.

Troubleshoot a Change in Sewing Machine Tension

A student recently emailed to ask:

I bought a M7 in April. My tension was perfect I didn't have to adjust the tension. Now after 51 hours of quilting my back tension is loose. I have to put it on 3.8 is this normal? I sew on a HP foot

Fine Tune that Thread Tension

It totally can be! The auto tension is just a starting point, especially if using different threads or certain stitches. For instance, the machine will increase your top tension if you set it up through the applications menu for free motion quilting. But if I decide to use a thicker thread than usual (ie: switch to 40wt Aurifil instead of the 50wt I piece with) I might not need the top to be tighter. A slippery, high-shine embroidery thread paired with a spun polyester might not react the same to the tension setting that works great for top and bottom of the same type of thread.

Troubleshoot that Tension Change

Specifically, you are using the HP foot, which means you are just doing straight stitch. You've said your top tension is loose, so that tells me you were seeing bobbin thread on the top and so you reduced it to 3.8. Sometimes needing to loosen the top tension on your standard thread combination for a commonly used stitch, like the straight stitch can indicate that the machine has some lint build up in the tension discs, making it harder for the thread to go through....hence the need to decrease tension. Frustratingly enough, sometimes a wad of lint will cause a lack of tension.

If you consistently find that the tension needs to be changed about the same amount each time, you can go into your settings and change the master tension. On these all digital machines, the numbers tend to be lower for tension than on our more manual Janomes which tend to run at balanced tension on regular sewing thread of 3-4-5, with 4 to 4.5 the most common for most regular sewing threads.

Lock the M7 before threading

Lock that Sewing Machine

Additionally, make sure you are 'locking' your machine for threading. This is something that machines like yours with the automatic presser foot lift must do when threading the top. (Janome 15000, 14000, 12000, M7, M17, 9400/9450, S9 and S7. I'm sure other brands with this kind of system have something similar) It tells the machine to OPEN the tension discs so that the thread can go between them properly. With the automatic presser foot lift being controlled by an electronic servo motor, the traditional link between the presser foot lever and the tension discs isn't as direct as on a simpler machine where threading with the foot up opens the discs. While an extra step, it is totally worthwhile.

Preventative Maintenance for your Sewing Machine It could also be time for a service. 51 hours doesn't seem like a lot, but it actually is! That is actual sewing time. The difference between hours on and time sewing can be ridiculously different. All depends on how you sew. Having bought in April, you are coming up on your 1 year anniversary. A service person can adjust the tension manually, so that it is balanced, without you having to change anything.

Self-Care for your Sewing Machine

Also, if there is lint in the tension springs of the bobbin case, that can cause the bottom tension to be loose. Here's a video that covers this issue below.

By the way, if you enjoy my videos on YouTube, I'd be so grateful if you'd give them a Like, share them with others, and don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss new ones.

Adjust the Bobbin Tension?

Finally, any changes you make to the bobbin case tension will also affect the top tension. It's a balancing act. Typically, we can get a good balanced stitch by just adjusting the top tension. Using 12wt or larger thread in the bobbin call for loosening the bobbin and 80-100wt thread calls for tightening the bobbin. Otherwise, the top can balance it.

Find Janome Education in the AmyQuilts Clubhouse

Want to learn more about your higher-end Janome machine so you too can learn to use it with more creativity and confidence? Want to know how to use all the "bells and whistles?" Check out the AmyQuilts Clubhouse program. Divided into one for sewing and one for embroidery, it's a monthly membership program with a ton of lessons and access to me as a "virtual Janome dealer."

Best wishes for happy stitches,

Does My Sewing Machine Need Oiled?

There are some topics in the sewing and quilting world that are hot button topics. "Should I pre-wash my fabrics?" is one of them and no matter your viewpoint on that, people can make a valid case for answers of yes, no, and sometimes. But another surprising topic, at least to me, is "Does my sewing machine need oiled?"

In the last few years when I'm popping in and out of various sewing machine and quilting groups on Facebook, I've seen this topic come up quite often, and honestly, there is a right and wrong answer. It's very important to the life of your machine to understand that it does need oiling even if you have been told not to oil it.

First, who am I and how do I know the answer? I'm a Janome dealer, machine instructor, and my husband is my Janome certified machine tech. Hubby is also quite a gear head, which means he loves all sorts of machines, modified autos, tractors, etc. He knows his way around mechanical systems.

Yes, your sewing machine needs oiling!

Your embroidery machine and serger too. In fact ALL mechanical systems need lubrication of some sort.

The better question is, "Does my machine need lubricating and is there any of that I can do myself?"

Here's a video on the best form of cleaning and possible lubrication that we can do on our own machines and why. If you check you comments, you'll see plenty of folks who think their machines do not need oiled, including users of the very same machine in the video.

Think about it like that of a vehicle. Most of us know that a car needs oil. Many of us currently even know where to check the oil. But they also need greasing from time to time. When is the last time you lubed your car's chassis? Heck, most people don't even change their own oil these days.

And unlike cars, our machines do not have an oil pan to hold a reservoir of oil. (Some industrial sewing machines do have an oil pan, but that's a different rabbit trail for another time.) Nor are our cars getting a frequent dose of cotton fibers added to that oil. A couple of decades ago, it was more common for the owner of a vehicle, or dad, husband, etc. to spend part of a day changing the oil of their own car.

But as cars got more complex, with more body panels and electronic components, not to mention fewer family members with mechanical know-how or tools, the rise of oil change businesses boomed.

It's very much the same with our sewing machines.

If you are sewing with a functional antique, there's a good chance you can take care of the oiling if you are so inclined. I define those machines as the all metal machines, most made before the late 1950's or with a similar design. Think of the black bodied Singers and several copycat type machines. In fact you really better learn how to oil it if you don't already, as these machines need frequent oiling. You'll likely want someone else to take care of periodic re-greasing of gears and doing the minor adjustments to the various systems to keep it running as long as possible.

Machines got more complex around the 60's. Think of the Singer Touch and Sew in its many versions. Machines around this period started using plastic gearing which was seen as so wonderful as it quieted down the chattering of all metal gearing, especially those which weren't lubricated enough and/or didn't get their gears adjusted as they began to wear. While many owners of these machines were told it would last forever, the care or lack of care those machines get are really starting to show and parts for 60-70 year old machines are hard to source.

Then we start to see the addition of plastic body panels and electronics and the idea of the average user oiling and maintaining their own machines started to give way to the periodic servicing by a sewing machine technician. When a sewist or quilter says they were told that they their machine doesn't need oiling, what likely should have been explained is that the regular servicing or preventative maintenance that should be done takes care of the need to oil by the user.

We also started to see a larger range of features and styles in the sewing machine market as the industry began to transition away from "A sewing machine in every home." Just like we were seeing in the workplace, and family composition, machines stretched across the spectrum of basic, functional machines for clothing and mending to the first computerized home sewing machine (a Janome) with more features for both function and fun, and then to the home embroidery machine (also a Janome). As more electronics were used, and I LOVE my electronic features, the industry did not want someone oiling areas that didn't need oil, or breaking something while getting the covers off. This may be what gave rise to the idea that the machines didn't need oiled, when in fact, they do need lubrication from a trained professional as part of an annual service.

As the insides of machines began to vary more, there were fewer owners who knew exactly how to service their machines. Even as the internet has sprouted all sorts of DIY tutorials, there are still plenty of things that just can't be taught via video or at least via a free video. That's assuming that the 'teacher' actually knows what they are doing. We spend thousands of dollars each year to get training on current models with Janome.

This range of not only function but also machine models made for various price-points across this spectrum affects manufacturing and machine design. Which in turn affects the method and frequency of needed maintenance. Not to mention, like cars, we are less likely to do the rather nasty work of removing old icky grease and replacing it with fresh grease. Seriously, some of the filth we've seen inside machines would shock you.

Here's an example of a neglected machine.

This comes down to whether bushings or bearings were used, the presence or absence of wicks, and to some extent the types of materials used in the making of these machines.

Wherever two pieces of metal rub together, lubrication is needed to prevent wear/friction and/or to remove dirt and such that would interfere with the turning of the gears together. The common points for this in a sewing machine are gears and the places where shafts are held in position so they can spin (turning a gear) or slide to and fro (a lateral or vertical motion versus spinning) like the needle bar going up and down, and in some cases, both.

I almost wish I didn't have my husband Eric to ask about these things. The answers get a lot more complex! Did you know that often in sewing machines, the lubricating of gears isn't for the sole reason of two parts rubbing together? Nope. Gear grease (especially when composite gears are used) is used primarily to help remove dirt and debris from between the teeth of the gears. If the grease isn't removed and replaced with fresh grease periodically, the debris (primarily lint and dust) will begin to form a crusty putty-like substance that will slow down and eventually stop your machine.

At the places where a shaft is held in place while it turns or slides, there are 3 methods used to prevent wear and only one of them doesn't need replenishment of lubrication. These 3 are: the use of oil or grease on a bushing, use of a material that is porous (also on a bushing) and holds onto oil, and finally the use of sealed ball bearings.

Essentially, it comes down to the use of bushings or bearings. Sealed ball bearings do not need lubrication as long as they are in the correct position and remain sealed. They are the best way to protect shafts from friction on high speed, higher end machines. We see these routinely in Janome's Professional series machines like the 6700P, 6600P, the HD9 straight stitch machines, as well as in the new Continental M7 and M17 machines and 15000, etc. This is also the more expensive method, so we don't see this on lower end or economy model machines, no matter the brand. Many of these models will have bushings in less important or lower speed/pressure areas.

Unlike bearings, bushings are essentially a cradle or collar for the shaft to keep it in place while the shaft moves. We see plain bushings the most in classic functional antique machines. The bushings in these old machines need regular oiling and are typically easy to get to for oiling. They may be exposed (like the gears underneath an old machine in a wooden base), or have holes in the metal casing above these points for oiling.

For bushings in more modern machines, an oil absorbing material is used. The price point and brand typically dictate the type of material used. For mid range and higher machines where bushings are often used, many brands use felt 'wicks' to slowly deposit oil onto the bushing area.

For a few brands, a special porous metal (silica bronze) is used especially in their higher end models. For many low end machines, a type of powdered Aluminum is used in the bushing area. This powder is formed into a metal using high pressure and then loaded with oil. For machines using silica bronze, a strong metal, eventually they will need to be re-loaded with oil by a service person. For machines using the cheaper powdered aluminum method, ideally they would need re-loading of oil, but often the models this method is used on have other wear issues and a price point similar to the cost of the service.

Most modern (post 1950's models) domestic sewing machines no longer need extensive oiling by the user, though if the machine has a wick under the bobbin case, it's a great place to check if oil could be added. Almost all (I can't speak to other brands or lower end machines sold by the big box stores) Janome drop-in bobbin machines have a wick under the bobbin case area that can be oiled with sewing machine oil occasionally. If it looks white and dry, a drop or two is all it needs. (See the above video)

When machines are properly serviced, they get oiled (Many Janome machines have multiple wicks that the service person will load with oil), the old gear grease gets removed and replaced with new grease-type lubrication. The longevity of your machine is mostly determined by how well is it kept clean and lubricated. Long term lack of lubrication will result in wear of shafts and gears that are expensive to replace.

We recommend you clean under the bobbin case every few bobbins, add a drop or two of oil to the wick under the bobbin case if it looks dry and a good servicing annually for your machine as a rule of thumb. Those who run a cottage industry or sew daily may want to have their machine serviced more frequently. For the average hobbyist, the machine won't need oil between services.

Servicing is more than cleaning and lubrication. It also includes testing and adjusting several of the mechanical systems for best performance. Some of these adjustments include:

Hook timing
Feed dog timing
Height of feed dogs
Gear lash
Needle centering
Needle to hook clearance
Needle bar height
Shaft alignment
Belt tightening or replacement
Stitch width centering
Stitch balance
and of course, tension adjustment!

Whew! A long answer to what seems a simple question.

Additionally, if a machine sits for a few years or more, it should get a service before it gets used again. The oil used in sewing machines is very light and the lint and dust can soak it all up.

A Few Words About Creativity, Quilting, and Judgement

Hello my quilting peeps!

A few weeks ago Eric and I went on a little road trip to a few of my quilt shop mentors. It was a substitution for the cancelled Janome Institute, where we dealers were going to see the new machines. Alas, that's been delayed. So we decided to make the most of it and still do a business trip of another kind.

While we were in Marysville, TN visiting the wonderful Terri from Mountain Creek Quilters, we did a quick video. She is a great encourager (and quilter!) and so we decided to have a chat about creativity, quilting, and judgement. I see this in a lot of my students...mostly of the self condemnation kind! It's part of my life mission to help people use their machines with more confidence for greater creativity, so it seemed like a great topic.

I hope you found this video encouraging!

I don't know about you, but it seems as if kindness, good manners, and compassion are in short supply these days. What's the saying? Be the change you want to see in the world? We must be kind and compassionate to ourselves and then pour out the overflow of kindness and compassion on others. Oh, and I totally have yet to learn how to be kind to myself, so please forgive my hypocrisy! I am working on it.

Be well and I'll see you in the next video.

PS I've been doing more YouTube videos these days on my AmyQuilts YouTube channel. Check them out!

Add Quilting to a Machine Embroidered Block

Someone was asking about how to add quilting to a quilt project that is machine embroidered applique on a Janome 15000 group and I wanted to share what I had done in one of our Kimberbell Clubs at Sew Simple of Lynchburg, home of AmyQuilts.com so I'm posting it here.

This would be ideal for a project that goes together in quilt-as-you-go style, so that the quilting can be added as you embroider each block. While it's not perfect, it requires no digitizing skills and you can do this with the Janome 15000 and Janome Skyline S9.

This takes 2 of the fabulous Janome apps for iPad. Sadly, not available on android. First you can use AcuSketch to take a photo of the embroidered block in the hoop. Make sure to select a canvas size that is equal to the hoop you are using. Doodle a nice meander, loop de loop, stipple, whatever you can manage. Keeping it real alert: I doodled many times to make it nice and smooth. You can use stencils, rulers, etc. to help you draw.

Send the design to your machine over the wifi and then open the AcuSetter app to pull the design from the machine and use the app to position the quilting stitches. Note: use the Tool section to slightly resize as needed.

Sorry, I don't recall why my block is upside down. I love the accuracy that the AcuSetter app gives!

Then stitch your quilting design over the rest of your embroidered block. It should be noted that the block shown was embroidered in two separate hoopings (Snowman and then the quotes) and then assembled with the pinwheel block as instructed. THEN I hooped the entire block for the quilting.

Love these machines!

PS While the AmyQuilts Embroidery Clubhouse is taking a little break, this is the kind of thing I cover in more detail there. The AmyQuilts Sewing Clubhouse is open to owners of these higher end Janomes to master the use of your machine with greater confidence and creativity.

Question of the week: Can you Free Motion Quilt or Piece with Polyester Embroidery Thread?

I get great questions about quilting, sewing, and machine use from my Clubhouse members, customers, and other students/followers. They make great informative posts, so I'm sharing this one with you.

Amy, what are your thoughts on using polyester embroidery thread for piecing and free motion quilting? Thanks.

I love free motion quilting with polyester embroidery thread. For me, my choice is Glide thread because it has so many trouble-free colors. The thread is smooth, consistent, lint free and has a wonderful sheen to it.

free motion quilting with rulers and poly thread

Pieced in Aurifil, quilted in Magic Mint Glide!

While you can piece with it, I don't think you should. Here's why....

It's slippery and seams can start to come undone, especially if sub-cutting strip sets.

Polyester is a lot stronger than cotton fibers and while you'd think that's a plus, sometimes we've got to rip out our seams and in the process, that can sometimes lead to a frayed seam allowance on our pieces.

My choice for piecing is the best Egyptian cotton thread I can afford. For me that's Aurifil 50wt. Wonderfil has great cotton thread too. In a pinch, all purpose spun polyester will do, but I try to avoid it. The fuzz on many common brands of spun poly result in more lint, some give tension issues, and then there's the ability to fray your seam allowance.

Quilt preservationists also gasp at the idea of using poly anything on cotton. They cite concerns of the thread cutting the fabric over time. I don't expect my quilts to be subject to preservation over the centuries, but at least I'm halfway there with piecing in cotton!

Acufeed Walking Foot System on the Janome M7

Here's a bit of a video from the Clubhouse on using the Acufeed on the Janome M7. It's a pretty simple process...but there's a bit of a trick to using it with decorative stitches or anything other than a straight stitch.

Have an M7 or other bigger Janome? Want to learn more about its features and how it can help you make the most of your sewing time? My AmyQuilts Clubhouse gives you lessons with a Janome dealer (me) without having to even leave home!

Check it out here: AmyQuilts Clubhouse

The AmyQuilts Clubhouse Doors are Open for New Members!

Join the Club!

Do you struggle with your fabulous high-end Janome machine? You know it should do X, Y, and Z but you're not entirely sure how? Maybe you don't have a helpful dealer close enough for convenient classes to master your new machine?

Maybe you're staying at home due to Covid? You are ready to really stitch up a storm and learn about your machine and machine techniques at home, but you could use some help.

Been told it's "operator error"? You're trying to do it right but you've been left figuring it out on your own. That is super frustrating!

You are not alone! I've heard pleas for help from machine owners just like you over the years and I have an ongoing Janome specific online club just for folks like you!

I help sewing machine owners get the most out of their machine so that they can use it it with confidence and increased creativity.

The Janome M7, one of the newest and most complex machines in the Clubhouse.

The clubhouse is now open for new enrollment!

Click here to join!

A Clubhouse member says:
"Amy, I watched the latest addition to the clubhouse this morning, the video about needle plates etc. Your videos are stellar, I'm not kidding really fantastic! Not just the great camera close-ups but the info you provide is amazing. I have a very good dealer and I have received a great deal of instruction from them, but I learned so many things in that 20 min. video that I simply never heard before. I just wanted to comment on how much I am getting out of the clubhouse. THANKS !"

Below is a live video discussion I held recently about the clubhouse...

Hi! I'm Amy Johnson and I was once right in your shoes. I bought my first big Janome machine from the sweetest gentleman, a Janome dealer who was in his mid-eighties. He was a well-respected man in the community and in regards to machine repair, but he didn't actually sew or have anyone to do machine instruction beyond how to thread it.

I was on my own and did the best I could with the manual. Being pretty much self taught, I tried a few things out on my Janome 6600 that wasn't quite meant for my machine...in particular, a ruler foot made for a frame-mounted machine. That got my blog and YouTube videos some serious attention. Eventually, I became an instructor for Craftsy, and the next thing you know, I became a Janome dealer when my Janome dealer retired.

My mechanically-inclined husband Eric became my Janome certified machine tech and has built quite a reputation for solving machine issues and keeping machines of all kinds running smoothly.

We joke that he knows the guts, and I know the glory of sewing machines!

Rhonda says,

"Thanks Amy useful info actually not just useful but valuable I have had Janome machines for years but am learning so much from you. I never knew about the markings on the feet. "

Janome machines are what I know best, so the club is limited to Janome machines of the following models: 15000, 14000, M7, 9450, 9400, Skylines S9, S7, S6, 6700P, 8900 and 8200. There is an embroidery focused add-on for the combination embroidery machines above, and Janome 500e and 550e machines can also sign up for it. The sewing and embroidery sections of the Clubhouse are priced separately and are not dependent on each other. This helps you stay focused on what you want to learn.

Learning in the AmyQuilts Clubhouse takes place in two ways; the actual Clubhouse site (with a "room" for sewing, and another for embroidery; as well as a private, members-only Facebook group for us to interact as a community and have monthly question and answer periods with me.

Click on the link above and see if this is the right fit for you to get the most out of your machine and your creativity!

Janome Blue Dot Bobbin Case

Any sewing machine user can tell you that changing the tension that is on the bobbin thread is a lot harder than changing the tension on the top thread. There's no numbers, it's hard to get to, it takes a tiny screw driver for the teeny tiny screw and there's really no way to do it without taking the bobbin case out of the machine.

(Yes, there are a few antique Singers that actually make the bobbin case screw accessible, but that's beside the point)

On a machine that has been properly adjusted and serviced by a sewing machine tech, typically we can balance out the tension by adjusting the top thread:

Tighten the top thread tension is just like loosening the bobbin tension.
Loosening the top tension is just like tightening the bobbin tension.

But there are a few times when we just need a little less tension on the bobbin thread:

When using thicker thread in the bobbin.
When doing a technique in which the bobbin tension needs to be looser (as in the case of Free Motion Quilting or doing the Handlook quilting stitch.)

Top tension must be tighter than the bobbin tension? Couldn't we just tighten the top tension?!

Yes! I thoroughly agree. Tighten that top tension....except what if my machine is set on automatic tension and I'm not sure what to move it to?

Excellent question.

And that is why Janome has created the "Blue Dot Bobbin Case" for many of its machines. Pop out the normal bobbin case, often called the red dot bobbin case, and pop in the blue dot bobbin case and viola! You have looser bobbin tension!

Janome's packaging needs an update or two. The one on the left fits a number of newer machines, including the 9mm ones. You can see that the 'dot' is actually a triangle arrow.

It's already pre-set to have a looser than normal bobbin tension.

It's no secret that I'm not a huge fan of the blue dot bobbin case for most Janome machines, but I get asked about it quite often, so it's a good topic for me to pop up here on the blog.

However, I am always a fan of having a second bobbin case for your machine. Not really as a backup, though that can be handy should that need arise. But the blue dot bobbincase can be used for that second bobbin case. Might want to tighten it a bit if using for regular sewing, but it's great if you want to use it for heavier threads in the bottom of your machine (bobbin work, anyone? Love it!) As the name implies, it's got a visible blue dot of color on it so that you don't get confused about which bobbin case is which! (Yes, you could get a regular bobbin case, mark it accordingly, and adjust the tension yourself too!)

But there are a handful of Janome machines in which their "automatic" tension setting is on the manual tension wheel, and it can actually be easier to change out the bobbin case than it is to find your manual thread tension setting after coming off of the auto setting.

These machines are the Janome 8200, 8900, S6 and S5. There may be some older models with the same issue, but I'm not familiar with them off the top of my head. By changing out the bobbincase for the blue dot one, you can keep the top tension set on the auto setting.

Auto tension on the 8200

Beware! The blue dot bobbin cases come in 3 versions: One for the smaller top loading machines without a thread cutter button (on the right in the first image of this post), machines with the thread cutter button, including high shank 7mm machines and 9mm high shank machines, and the Janome M7 Continental. Yes, the M7 has a whole different bobbin case due to it's improved bobbin thread level sensor and different bobbin case, hence a different blue dot bobbin case. Check with your Janome dealer to make sure you get the right version, Or order from me at AmyQuilts.com where I have a comprehensive list of machines that take which type.

Finally, some people are just terrified to change their tension on their machine. Yes, it's true. It's my mission to take this fear out of using a sewing machine, but until I can get my message out there to the masses, it is a welcome thing for some folks to be told to change to the blue dot bobbin case for free motion quilting.

Do you struggle to understand tension on your higher end Janome machine? Want to learn to use your machine with more confidence and to explore your creativity? You might be a good fit for the AmyQuilts Clubhouse! This is my private, paid membership for owners of certain Janome machines, including all the current bigger models: S6, S7, S9, 6700P, 8200,8900, 9450/9400, 14000, 15000 and Janome M7. With video lessons on the basics, commonly used techniques, specialty feet, embroidery (separate section for the machines with embroidery and includes the 500 and 550e), it's like having a virtual local dealer! With the private facebook group, and over 250 members it's like going to a virtual Janome Club meeting...except we're not crowded.

Check it out and sign up for notification of when I open the doors to new members by going to the Clubhouse page.

Making Scrub Masks

When I was first approached about making making masks for our local hospital, I was sure it was a hoax. Surely they weren't that desperate for masks, since I knew that cotton macks really didn't provide the kind of protection from the Covid-19 virus that the real hospital masks did.

Sadly, that's no hoax. Here's my info on how I'm making them, but there are tons of tutorials out there. Mine was based on the pattern one of the hospital nurses sent me.

The key things: They need to be made from high quality woven cotton and need to stand up to plenty of bleach and laundering. Prewash and dry your fabric so they don't shrink after washing the first time. So that means that there's no need to make them with the super cute prints that are being shown on FB and IG. The outside and inside should be different colors in case it is taken off and then put back on before laundering. It was requested not to use 1/4 inch elastic as it's too wide. Right now it's hard to find 1/8 inch elastic, so I'm making a combinating of masks with large hair elastics for ear loops and long fabric ties. Also requested was to include a small piece of wire in the top to form the mask around the nose. Bread twist ties or florist's wire works well.

NOTE: We are in the process of tweaking the pattern so we can cut 3 masks from a single WOF (width of fabric) or 6 from two different fabrics by WOF this is for easier kit cutting from yardage. We are still updating as time goes by.

If you are using a kit from Sew Simple of Lynchburg, it will do 6 masks and you'll have enough fabric left over to make fabric ties for the masks. PLEASE return these masks to Sew Simple or to Amy's Altavista studio as they are intended to go to hospital workers.

Masks

Pattern adapted by Amy K Johnson from a variety of sources.

Courtesy of Sew Simple of Lynchburg and AmyQuilts.com

· Two different colors, 7 ½ x 7 inch squares of tightly woven quilt shop quality quilting cotton One 7 x 6 ½ inch square fusible interfacing, midweight.

· ou’ll need 2 rectangles of fabric 2” x 4” to make casing for fabric ties, elastic loops or large hair ties.

· Elastic loops of around 10”, or 6” if sewn into the corners. Play with this based on the materials you use.

· If using fabric to make ties instead of elastic loops, you’ll need 2 strips WOF by how ever wide you are comfortable with. I used a binding foot and the ¾” strips it could use. This was fiddly. I’d use at least 1” to 1¼” wide strips. WOF is a little long, so you’ll trim off the excess.

· One piece of wire/bread tie/florists wire approximately 5” long, bend ends over about ¼“ to reduce chance of poking through fabric.

· Strong polyester thread.

Fuse interfacing to wrong side of one square, centering it on the fabric. Follow manufacturers instructions for fusing.

Place fabric squares together, wrong sides facing out. Sew with a 1/4in. seam allowance down the two shorter (6½“) opposite sides.

Apply wire to top seam allowance by zig zagging over it with a wide zigzag. Be careful!

Turn mask right side out.

Because we are adjusting this pattern, the diagram below needs updated. The biggest pleat needs to be at the top for the nose area.

Make folding template from card stock and use template on next page to make a series of 3 pleats across mask. The pleats should face down. (Not like a pocket facing up on outside.) The largest pleat should be at the top. They do not need to be exact, but you want your pleated sides to measure 3 inches when you are done with the top pleat 3/4 of an inch. If you have delegated an 'outside' fabric, make sure the pleats face down and not up on the outside. ('Up' would make a pocket of sorts.)

Stitch across ends over the pleats with a straight stitch. Trim stray threads.

Make a casing with each of the two 2” x 4” rectangles. Fold one short end under ½“. Fold the long sides to the middle and then fold into half. All edges should be folded in except one short edge.

Apply to the end of the mask, encasing the raw edges and holding the fabric tie, elastic loop or large hair tie within the casing. If using shorter pieces of elastic, stitch them into the corners as you sew the casing down to the mask, tucking the ends into casing.

If using fabric ties, press long edges into the center, then fold in half again. Stitch along edge of the two folds on one side and insert the ties into the mask side casings at the halfway point. Tie knots into the ends at an appropriate length and trim.

I will back to this post in the next few days to add more details, but for now I wanted to get this out. There will a facebook video on the https://www.facebook.com/sewsimpleoflynchburg/

This is an ever changing project at this point.

That Little Black Button.

The AmyQuilts Clubhouse has been going great! So many wonderful people learning about their Janome machines. Plus we're having fun sharing in our private Facebook group--a definite plus in this crazy Coronavirus time. I'm really enjoying using the platform for the Clubhouse and the whole AmyQuilts School and I am looking forward to doing more stand-alone classes with it.

In fact, I've got what I would call a mini-course on there for free!

It's about using that little black button that is on the Janome A foot. This feature that so many people don't know about is also on machine feet for BabyLock and Brother machines and of course, Kenmore and Elna machines.

In this crazy time when a lot of us are social distancing or at home with kids, it's a great time to learn something new! Because of this, I may open up the Clubhouse to enrollment sooner than planned as I've getting requests for this. If you are interested in learning more about any of the qualifying Janome machines, sign up here: Clubhouse info to be notified when we are ready to enroll folks.

Free Motion Quilting Feathers: Part 3

Here's the last video in my feathers series. I look at the structure of the shape of the plume and a trick I use to help me make the shape and join it into the spine gracefully.

Free Motion Feathers Video: Part 2

Here's the second part of the Feathers video. Enjoy!

BTW, enrollment for my AmyQuilts Clubhouse has begun. It's an online subscription designed to help people learn certain Janome models and machine techniques better. It's like having virtual dealer classes. You can read more and enroll at the AmyQuilts School. There's even a free mini-course about the black button on the A foot for Janomes and also on many other brand's utility sewing foot.

Free Motion Feathers Video

I edited up one of my Facebook videos up for YouTube and thought I'd share it here. It's the first part of the video I did. On those live videos, I quilt for close to an hour!

Playing with feathers again, and making a variety of them.

I've been doing a lot of shooting videos lately, making sure I have plenty of content for the AmyQuilts Clubhouse! I'm pretty excited about it.

The clubhouse is a membership style learning "virtual classroom" covering a group of Janome machines, It's also a community for their owners to learn and be inspired by teaching and projects made specifically for these machines. I'm still working on the details, but if you want to know more, head over to the Clubhouse page on AmyQuilts.com

The registration isn't live yet, but we'll make sure to let you know when it is!

AmyQuilts Clubhouse

I've wanted to make an online teaching membership for sometime. A place where I can go into more detail and deeper into a subject than I can with a live video or other free content, especially with specific machine training. Since something like that takes more time, planning, resources, and technology, it's always felt out of my skill set.

[This post was edited for clarity 1/15/2020]

As a former Craftsy/Bluprint instructor, I've seen behind the scenes of their professional studios and their talented production crew. They are amazing! Though as the teacher, I had no input into the post-production process and couldn't control what got edited out, making me feel like some key bits of info were lacking, or that I didn't get to cover a subject in enough depth.

So I stuck to my informal Facebook live videos and occasional recorded and edited YouTube videos. My video skills, while still pretty basic improved, and repeatedly I heard that watchers didn't mind. What they wanted to see was real quilting, including what I did when I made a mistake. There have been several times a "how to quilt" video became a "how to fix" video, complete with seam ripper. Because that what happens to all of us. Stitch happens.

As a Janome dealer, shop instructor, and sweetheart to my shop's amazing Janome machine service tech, I have a pretty thorough knowledge base to draw from and help folks understand the capabilities of their Janome machines. You can find me helping out in several FB groups on Janome machines and free motion quilting. I just love to help folks!

I kept getting questions that I just couldn't answer effectively in a FB comment or at times I really couldn't afford to take the time needed to do a deep dive into a topic while also being the main worker of Sew Simple of Lynchburg. I HATE not being helpful! Even if it means losing some sleep or sitting at my computer screen more than is healthy, I'll give it my best.

We will definitely take a deep dive into quilting with rulers. This project never really made it into my Craftsy class. So sad.

The work life "balance" (It's more like a teeter totter, back and forth, back and forth.) was horribly off and I was getting guff from my family and rightfully so. But I was torn between time with my family and improving the business that keeps the roof over their sweet heads.

Then we found just the right employee. Mally is amazing and we are so happy to put her to work and she loves taking work off my plate so that I can do what I do best, while she does what she does best. Now that she's been part of the Sew Simple team for about 4 months, I've decided to make more videos a priority. And to make them available to more than just folks on Facebook. To make it more time efficient, most of these videos will be created in video class format and organized by subject.

We will even take a peek into machine techniques for garment sewing....but...

Over the last 2 years I've been wanting to do this, but put off by the information I found on the "right way to launch a subscription learning channel." Funnels, webinars, scripts and code....that kind of stuff was overwhelming. So last Saturday, I put out a simple call to interested folks who follow AmyQuilts on Facebook, as well as the Sew Simple of Lynchburg FB page and my group, "Amy's Sew Simple Adventures" to send a simple email to info@amyquilts.com with "clubhouse" in the subject line. About the only hi-tech thing about it was that this address actually goes to Mally's email inbox so I don't obsess over the numbers of people who did or didn't email.

While I can sew garments, it's not my thing, so this won't be a garment making course.

We will be sending out an email Monday and again as many times as needed to answer questions about the AmyQuilts Clubhouse until the doors close on membership in March. I will let you know when we begin to take signups for membership, but until then, I'm working on content, projects and videos as much as possible. Pricing is still being finalized. Monthly subscription will be less than a single class at a typical quilt shop. But this first round of members will certainly see the lowest prices possible for their member ship and will retain that price as long as their membership stays continuous. New content will be added regularly and be available for the duration of your membership, so those who get in on the initial round will really see the most bang for their buck.

Because Janome machines are what I know best, the club is limited to Janome machines of the following models: 15000, 14000, 12000, S9, M7, 9450, 9400, S7, 6700P, S6, 8900 and 8200. I have decided to create an embroidery focused add-on upgrade for the combination embroidery machines above and allow the Janome 500e and 550e machines to sign up for it. This will keep the main group focused on sewing only, a money and time saving benefit for the sewing only machines above.

When you join the AmyQuilts Clubhouse, you will learn the many features and benefits of these feature-rich 9mm machines so you know how to use them best and make the most of your creative sewing time. You will operate your machine(s) without fear and frustration.

Ever take a class where the instructor didn't know your machine and couldn't tell you which foot or settings to use? That's really frustrating. As you follow the Clubhouse content, you'll be inspired by projects that are designed for this group of machines and their capabilities. No guessing and no frustration.

In the private FB group, you'll be able to share your projects with other members to inspire and get inspired. There will be a monthly live question and answer time with me in the group. The group is optional if you don't do Facebook. No content will be given out via FB, and the lives will be recorded and posted in the Clubhouse Classroom.

There will be some projects that span both groups, using sewing and embroidery for the project, with non-embroidery options for those who won't be doing embroidery. So you will want to join both groups if you have a combination machine.

We won't be verifying machine ownership, but the content will be created for just these models as anything else just requires too many different feet and settings. Or they came out and were discontinued before I became a dealer. Plus I really need access to these machines to make the videos!

Above is a recent YouTube video of mine on the M7, setting up for free motion quilting.

The clubhouse will not be replacing all the other ways I teach and interact online. It's just a new offering. For those with machines not on the list, there will be future stand-alone classes that are not machine specific, including my Troubleshooting Guide to Free Motion Quilting.

Again, send a simple email to info@amyquilts.com with "clubhouse" in the subject line and you will be added to the list of interested persons and we will be getting the details out to you shortly.

Video Post: Pointed Oval Ruler and Freehand Feathers

Here's a video I created from the live Facebook footage from the Amish Bars Quilt-along. It features both quilting with rulers and free hand feathers. It was a lot of fun to do!

I've been adding videos to my YouTube channel nearly every week, so if you don't do Facebook, you can still see some of these segments. I love doing these free motion quilting videos!

Quilted Dream Big Dahlia Eye-Candy

In August, I traveled to Atlanta, GA for Janome Institute. This is the big conference for Janome dealers where we get to see new machines (Have you feasted your eyes in the Janome M7 yet? 13.5 inches to the right of the needle, perfect for free motion quilting!), new product, and learn more about the machines and business in general. We also get to check out various vendors as well.

While I was in a class on the Janome Artistic Quilt Maker Pro 18 (the longarm I now carry in the shop and am learning to use), I spied some fabulous Dream Big Dahlia panels hung up on display. I assume they were done on the long arm, but they were done with free hand free motion quilting, so I snapped some pics so I could share them with you.

First a detail shot and then the full picture. While up close the loops over the center might seem like it obscures the detail of the panel, from a distance it's lovely!