As we do for all new machine customers, I had an embroidery machine lesson the other day with the owner of a new Janome 500e.
The owner is a delight and eager to learn, but when I saw the thread set he brought in, I cringed. It's a super cheap thread with claims of it being great and trash both in the reviews on Amazon where it usually is purchased. I think it's junk, but didn't want to start off with any negativity.
So I proceeded with my lesson. After going through threading and other basics, we moved to editing and combining designs on the machine. Then of course, we needed to stitch something out. I love doing lettering for a first lesson an an embroidery machine as large letters make for a great explanation of tension.
Top tension here is too tight.
Off we went, stitching with my student's thread. I was hoping to be wrong. Alas, the stitching looked awful. We changed the needle. Tried again. Ugh. So we decided to change the black thread to a different brand of thread in a gold color.
Just look at the difference! The cheap black thread didn't fill the spaces well and it stitched with a lot of loops and noise. What kind of noise? That rattling bobbin sound that makes your finger hover near the start/stop button. We used the same bobbin thread for both stitch outs.
He said, "This crap is going back to Amazon!"
This was a case of fast and cheap, but not good.
That thread? Starts with a B ends with -thread. Hate it. Quality is worth it every time.
I bought a M7 in April. My tension was perfect I didn't have to adjust the tension. Now after 51 hours of quilting my back tension is loose. I have to put it on 3.8 is this normal? I sew on a HP foot
Fine Tune that Thread Tension
It totally can be! The auto tension is just a starting point, especially if using different threads or certain stitches. For instance, the machine will increase your top tension if you set it up through the applications menu for free motion quilting. But if I decide to use a thicker thread than usual (ie: switch to 40wt Aurifil instead of the 50wt I piece with) I might not need the top to be tighter. A slippery, high-shine embroidery thread paired with a spun polyester might not react the same to the tension setting that works great for top and bottom of the same type of thread.
Troubleshoot that Tension Change
Specifically, you are using the HP foot, which means you are just doing straight stitch. You've said your top tension is loose, so that tells me you were seeing bobbin thread on the top and so you reduced it to 3.8. Sometimes needing to loosen the top tension on your standard thread combination for a commonly used stitch, like the straight stitch can indicate that the machine has some lint build up in the tension discs, making it harder for the thread to go through....hence the need to decrease tension. Frustratingly enough, sometimes a wad of lint will cause a lack of tension.
If you consistently find that the tension needs to be changed about the same amount each time, you can go into your settings and change the master tension. On these all digital machines, the numbers tend to be lower for tension than on our more manual Janomes which tend to run at balanced tension on regular sewing thread of 3-4-5, with 4 to 4.5 the most common for most regular sewing threads.
Lock the M7 before threading
Lock that Sewing Machine
Additionally, make sure you are 'locking' your machine for threading. This is something that machines like yours with the automatic presser foot lift must do when threading the top. (Janome 15000, 14000, 12000, M7, M17, 9400/9450, S9 and S7. I'm sure other brands with this kind of system have something similar) It tells the machine to OPEN the tension discs so that the thread can go between them properly. With the automatic presser foot lift being controlled by an electronic servo motor, the traditional link between the presser foot lever and the tension discs isn't as direct as on a simpler machine where threading with the foot up opens the discs. While an extra step, it is totally worthwhile.
Preventative Maintenance for your Sewing Machine
It could also be time for a service. 51 hours doesn't seem like a lot, but it actually is! That is actual sewing time. The difference between hours on and time sewing can be ridiculously different. All depends on how you sew. Having bought in April, you are coming up on your 1 year anniversary. A service person can adjust the tension manually, so that it is balanced, without you having to change anything.
Self-Care for your Sewing Machine
Also, if there is lint in the tension springs of the bobbin case, that can cause the bottom tension to be loose. Here's a video that covers this issue below.
By the way, if you enjoy my videos on YouTube, I'd be so grateful if you'd give them a Like, share them with others, and don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss new ones.
Adjust the Bobbin Tension?
Finally, any changes you make to the bobbin case tension will also affect the top tension. It's a balancing act. Typically, we can get a good balanced stitch by just adjusting the top tension. Using 12wt or larger thread in the bobbin call for loosening the bobbin and 80-100wt thread calls for tightening the bobbin. Otherwise, the top can balance it.
Find Janome Education in the AmyQuilts Clubhouse
Want to learn more about your higher-end Janome machine so you too can learn to use it with more creativity and confidence? Want to know how to use all the "bells and whistles?" Check out the AmyQuilts Clubhouse program. Divided into one for sewing and one for embroidery, it's a monthly membership program with a ton of lessons and access to me as a "virtual Janome dealer."
There are some topics in the sewing and quilting world that are hot button topics. "Should I pre-wash my fabrics?" is one of them and no matter your viewpoint on that, people can make a valid case for answers of yes, no, and sometimes. But another surprising topic, at least to me, is "Does my sewing machine need oiled?"
In the last few years when I'm popping in and out of various sewing machine and quilting groups on Facebook, I've seen this topic come up quite often, and honestly, there is a right and wrong answer. It's very important to the life of your machine to understand that it does need oiling even if you have been told not to oil it.
First, who am I and how do I know the answer? I'm a Janome dealer, machine instructor, and my husband is my Janome certified machine tech. Hubby is also quite a gear head, which means he loves all sorts of machines, modified autos, tractors, etc. He knows his way around mechanical systems.
Yes, your sewing machine needs oiling!
Your embroidery machine and serger too. In fact ALL mechanical systems need lubrication of some sort.
The better question is, "Does my machine need lubricating and is there any of that I can do myself?"
Here's a video on the best form of cleaning and possible lubrication that we can do on our own machines and why. If you check you comments, you'll see plenty of folks who think their machines do not need oiled, including users of the very same machine in the video.
Think about it like that of a vehicle. Most of us know that a car needs oil. Many of us currently even know where to check the oil. But they also need greasing from time to time. When is the last time you lubed your car's chassis? Heck, most people don't even change their own oil these days.
And unlike cars, our machines do not have an oil pan to hold a reservoir of oil. (Some industrial sewing machines do have an oil pan, but that's a different rabbit trail for another time.) Nor are our cars getting a frequent dose of cotton fibers added to that oil. A couple of decades ago, it was more common for the owner of a vehicle, or dad, husband, etc. to spend part of a day changing the oil of their own car.
But as cars got more complex, with more body panels and electronic components, not to mention fewer family members with mechanical know-how or tools, the rise of oil change businesses boomed.
It's very much the same with our sewing machines.
If you are sewing with a functional antique, there's a good chance you can take care of the oiling if you are so inclined. I define those machines as the all metal machines, most made before the late 1950's or with a similar design. Think of the black bodied Singers and several copycat type machines. In fact you really better learn how to oil it if you don't already, as these machines need frequent oiling. You'll likely want someone else to take care of periodic re-greasing of gears and doing the minor adjustments to the various systems to keep it running as long as possible.
Machines got more complex around the 60's. Think of the Singer Touch and Sew in its many versions. Machines around this period started using plastic gearing which was seen as so wonderful as it quieted down the chattering of all metal gearing, especially those which weren't lubricated enough and/or didn't get their gears adjusted as they began to wear. While many owners of these machines were told it would last forever, the care or lack of care those machines get are really starting to show and parts for 60-70 year old machines are hard to source.
Then we start to see the addition of plastic body panels and electronics and the idea of the average user oiling and maintaining their own machines started to give way to the periodic servicing by a sewing machine technician. When a sewist or quilter says they were told that they their machine doesn't need oiling, what likely should have been explained is that the regular servicing or preventative maintenance that should be done takes care of the need to oil by the user.
We also started to see a larger range of features and styles in the sewing machine market as the industry began to transition away from "A sewing machine in every home." Just like we were seeing in the workplace, and family composition, machines stretched across the spectrum of basic, functional machines for clothing and mending to the first computerized home sewing machine (a Janome) with more features for both function and fun, and then to the home embroidery machine (also a Janome). As more electronics were used, and I LOVE my electronic features, the industry did not want someone oiling areas that didn't need oil, or breaking something while getting the covers off. This may be what gave rise to the idea that the machines didn't need oiled, when in fact, they do need lubrication from a trained professional as part of an annual service.
As the insides of machines began to vary more, there were fewer owners who knew exactly how to service their machines. Even as the internet has sprouted all sorts of DIY tutorials, there are still plenty of things that just can't be taught via video or at least via a free video. That's assuming that the 'teacher' actually knows what they are doing. We spend thousands of dollars each year to get training on current models with Janome.
This range of not only function but also machine models made for various price-points across this spectrum affects manufacturing and machine design. Which in turn affects the method and frequency of needed maintenance. Not to mention, like cars, we are less likely to do the rather nasty work of removing old icky grease and replacing it with fresh grease. Seriously, some of the filth we've seen inside machines would shock you.
Here's an example of a neglected machine.
This comes down to whether bushings or bearings were used, the presence or absence of wicks, and to some extent the types of materials used in the making of these machines.
Wherever two pieces of metal rub together, lubrication is needed to prevent wear/friction and/or to remove dirt and such that would interfere with the turning of the gears together. The common points for this in a sewing machine are gears and the places where shafts are held in position so they can spin (turning a gear) or slide to and fro (a lateral or vertical motion versus spinning) like the needle bar going up and down, and in some cases, both.
I almost wish I didn't have my husband Eric to ask about these things. The answers get a lot more complex! Did you know that often in sewing machines, the lubricating of gears isn't for the sole reason of two parts rubbing together? Nope. Gear grease (especially when composite gears are used) is used primarily to help remove dirt and debris from between the teeth of the gears. If the grease isn't removed and replaced with fresh grease periodically, the debris (primarily lint and dust) will begin to form a crusty putty-like substance that will slow down and eventually stop your machine.
At the places where a shaft is held in place while it turns or slides, there are 3 methods used to prevent wear and only one of them doesn't need replenishment of lubrication. These 3 are: the use of oil or grease on a bushing, use of a material that is porous (also on a bushing) and holds onto oil, and finally the use of sealed ball bearings.
Essentially, it comes down to the use of bushings or bearings. Sealed ball bearings do not need lubrication as long as they are in the correct position and remain sealed. They are the best way to protect shafts from friction on high speed, higher end machines. We see these routinely in Janome's Professional series machines like the 6700P, 6600P, the HD9 straight stitch machines, as well as in the new Continental M7 and M17 machines and 15000, etc. This is also the more expensive method, so we don't see this on lower end or economy model machines, no matter the brand. Many of these models will have bushings in less important or lower speed/pressure areas.
Unlike bearings, bushings are essentially a cradle or collar for the shaft to keep it in place while the shaft moves. We see plain bushings the most in classic functional antique machines. The bushings in these old machines need regular oiling and are typically easy to get to for oiling. They may be exposed (like the gears underneath an old machine in a wooden base), or have holes in the metal casing above these points for oiling.
For bushings in more modern machines, an oil absorbing material is used. The price point and brand typically dictate the type of material used. For mid range and higher machines where bushings are often used, many brands use felt 'wicks' to slowly deposit oil onto the bushing area.
For a few brands, a special porous metal (silica bronze) is used especially in their higher end models. For many low end machines, a type of powdered Aluminum is used in the bushing area. This powder is formed into a metal using high pressure and then loaded with oil. For machines using silica bronze, a strong metal, eventually they will need to be re-loaded with oil by a service person. For machines using the cheaper powdered aluminum method, ideally they would need re-loading of oil, but often the models this method is used on have other wear issues and a price point similar to the cost of the service.
Most modern (post 1950's models) domestic sewing machines no longer need extensive oiling by the user, though if the machine has a wick under the bobbin case, it's a great place to check if oil could be added. Almost all (I can't speak to other brands or lower end machines sold by the big box stores) Janome drop-in bobbin machines have a wick under the bobbin case area that can be oiled with sewing machine oil occasionally. If it looks white and dry, a drop or two is all it needs. (See the above video)
When machines are properly serviced, they get oiled (Many Janome machines have multiple wicks that the service person will load with oil), the old gear grease gets removed and replaced with new grease-type lubrication. The longevity of your machine is mostly determined by how well is it kept clean and lubricated. Long term lack of lubrication will result in wear of shafts and gears that are expensive to replace.
We recommend you clean under the bobbin case every few bobbins, add a drop or two of oil to the wick under the bobbin case if it looks dry and a good servicing annually for your machine as a rule of thumb. Those who run a cottage industry or sew daily may want to have their machine serviced more frequently. For the average hobbyist, the machine won't need oil between services.
Servicing is more than cleaning and lubrication. It also includes testing and adjusting several of the mechanical systems for best performance. Some of these adjustments include:
Hook timing
Feed dog timing
Height of feed dogs
Gear lash
Needle centering
Needle to hook clearance
Needle bar height
Shaft alignment
Belt tightening or replacement
Stitch width centering
Stitch balance
and of course, tension adjustment!
Whew! A long answer to what seems a simple question.
Additionally, if a machine sits for a few years or more, it should get a service before it gets used again. The oil used in sewing machines is very light and the lint and dust can soak it all up.
A few weeks ago Eric and I went on a little road trip to a few of my quilt shop mentors. It was a substitution for the cancelled Janome Institute, where we dealers were going to see the new machines. Alas, that's been delayed. So we decided to make the most of it and still do a business trip of another kind.
While we were in Marysville, TN visiting the wonderful Terri from Mountain Creek Quilters, we did a quick video. She is a great encourager (and quilter!) and so we decided to have a chat about creativity, quilting, and judgement. I see this in a lot of my students...mostly of the self condemnation kind! It's part of my life mission to help people use their machines with more confidence for greater creativity, so it seemed like a great topic.
I hope you found this video encouraging!
I don't know about you, but it seems as if kindness, good manners, and compassion are in short supply these days. What's the saying? Be the change you want to see in the world? We must be kind and compassionate to ourselves and then pour out the overflow of kindness and compassion on others. Oh, and I totally have yet to learn how to be kind to myself, so please forgive my hypocrisy! I am working on it.
