Where to Shop Now that Joann is Closed?

There's been much discussion about shopping for fabric and supplies ever since Joann (Formerly known as Joann Fabrics) announced the closing of approximately 500 of its 833 stores following a second bankruptcy filing in less than a year.

"Wherever will we get affordable fabric and notions?" seems to be the main concern as both Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Walmart and other chain crafts stores are still out there for yarn, crafting, and decorating bits and bobs, plus some crafting quality of fabric.

As a teen I worked in a Ben Franklin and the long-gone Clothworld. I never thought back then that I'd be a quilt shop owner. Though I would rather think of Sew Simple/AmyQuilts as a creative sewing center, since we do carry some garment fabrics, flannel, felted wool, and fabulous threads for hand embroidery. Not to mention our Janome sewing machines and top notch machine and stitching help.

500 stores.... I feel for the employees who will not only need to find new jobs, but those the public are used to seeing, the average employee on the floor, likely will be guilt tripped into staying until the stores lock their doors for the last time. 

According to Comparably (,com), a business ranking website, those store employees earn an average of $22,001 per year. Admittedly, there were no details given as to how many hours the average store employee worked. Comparably went on to say,

"Comparably has a total of 3 salary records associated with Jo-Ann Stores employees. 416 employees at Jo-Ann Stores rank their Compensation in the Bottom 5% of similar sized companies on Comparably (based on 1244 ratings) while 407 employees at Jo-Ann Stores rank their Perks And Benefits in the Bottom 5% of similar sized companies on Comparably (based on 411 ratings)."

Of course, things looked better in the C-suite offices, where Wade Miquelon, the former CEO of Joann Fabrics, earned $2,740,178 in total compensation. This included a salary of $834,231, stock options of $1,275,651, stock of $626,247, and other compensation of $4,049. He left the company in May of 2023 and received a severance payment of $392,500 in cash.

An NPR report indicated some fabric shoppers will delve into thrifting and repurposing. I think that is great and certainly a fabulous form of sustainability. But unlike the article stated, it's far from the only option.

I specifically refer to a sustainable business model as we do see time and time again that when business' offer lower quality items at low prices and also embrace the use of coupons for 30-40% routinely, they are competing in a race to the lowest prices. That is not sustainable in the long run. At least not while JOANN was a publicly traded company. It hoped to see stock growth make up for low margins in the store. You really do not want to win a race to the bottom. 

Yes, sales have a place in retail. Appropriate pricing models are important, as is making sure to offer customers what they want. JOANN certainly was no longer the large fabric store they used to be, instead adding more and more decorative items, crafts, yarn, beads, fake flowers, etc. 

Most quilt shops do have regular sales or even a dedicated clearance section for those who shop with a smaller budget in mind or just love getting a deal. Some, like mine, offers a rewards program of some sort to give discounts to loyal shoppers. (Actually we do all of these things at Sew Simple home of AmyQuilts.com) We love helping new customers and beginners with classes, advice, and encouragement.

That glimmer though....

JOANN had 833 stores across the nation. 

Did you know that there 4,547 quilt shops in the US?

That's 5.47 quilt shops for each of the previous 833 JOANN stores. 

This number comes from the number of shops using the tax code designation for quilt shops. Arguably this number could vary quite a bit. But that's 4,547 shops calling themselves a quilt shop on their taxes. There could be more. Sadly, at the rate I'm seeing quilt shops close this past year, there could be fewer.

I can hear it now, "I need more than quilting fabric."

These shops are on their way to do one of 2 things. Deciding that they are working harder than ever for very little return, even if they enjoy it, and are thinking of getting out. Then there are other shops, maybe those run by younger people, who are actively looking for ways to grow, thrive, and intersect what they offer with what customers want. It's these shops that I hope and pray will convert JOANN shoppers to local independent creative sewing center shoppers.

These types of quilt shops are paying attention! They often have fabric suitable for certain garments; cotton lawn, canvas, linen blends, and other more drape-y woven cottons. They've got interfacing, thread, sewing machines, notions and more. Many will listen to their customers when they say they want something else and will bring it in if they can, or special order if needed in enough quantity. If they've been around long enough, they may have been fabric shops at first until quilting was the main thing left to them. I'm hoping we see them diversify and become creative sewing centers.

Many JOANN shoppers have commented that they will shop online instead.

According to Google, there are 3521 quilt shops with online shopping. A few of them are huge. One  of the largest has alienated a portion of the quilting and sewing community with their stance on certain cultural issues. Many are small enough that they can help you shop online with them if desired.  You just can't get that kind of service from the big discounting kind of shops.

One thing is for sure; these independent shops can't expand to serve a broader range of sewing interests without getting to know these shoppers. It can be a real "chicken versus the egg" kind of thing.

With 4,547 quilt shops across the country, I propose that you just might have more shops around you than you realize. 

The average age of a quilt shop is just 5 years and 9 months and the number of shops have increased by almost 4% since 2003. Not a huge increase, but statistically, shops are coming and going fairly frequently.  A sign that creative people love the idea of providing what they perceive people like them need. Unfortunately, also a sign that it doesn't make big bucks for the owners.

Ask around. Do a google search. These shops aren't as visible as a 10,000 square foot "big box" business, not just in size but also in marketing dollars. But they are out there. Sure, some might not be your "cup of tea" but there will be others that are. There are plenty that want to serve you up your favorite cup of tea, but they can't do that if they don't know you. 

Additionally, if you are a quilter, you may find that your projects turn out better with the higher quality fabrics. (I know, I know, some will never be convinced of this.)  Unless a quilt shop is serious about being a bargain style shop, they typically sell fabrics by companies who source their cottons (greige goods) from South Korea, Japan, India, Bali, and Pakistan where a better grade of these raw fabrics are used to then dye or print than Joanns did. 

Even better, more and more cotton is being digitally printed in the USA. Without tariffs, these fabrics may no longer seem as expensive as in the past. (They likely will be printed on cotton milled overseas for a finer quality, but the final step done in the US will save against tarifs.) I've also read about a number of old textile plants in the US being brought back to life to weave denim, toweling, woolens, and other fabrics. That brings an even brighter glow to that glimmer. I did recently order a few bolts of quilting cotton solids from a company that makes them in the US. Sadly, it felt awful and will be going straight to my clearance section.

This is a conversation to be had with other creative makers, shoppers and shop owners. This is a chance to grow and learn together, to get to know people in your community, and to look at what does a sustainable creative hobby or even small cottage businesses and their suppliers look like as we go forward. Because we must continue to move forward, even if stitching seems like something from our past. We're making beauty out of the ordinary, and for many, engaging in a practice that has multiple mental health benefits.

My final thoughts on finding fabric and supplies in a post-Joann world:

If you only care about price in the current moment, stick to Am*zon, w*w*k, big box places, and the mega online suppliers like MO St*r & FQshop. (Yeah, I'm not spelling them out; they can do their own promotion.) I mention 'current moment' because these kinds of businesses can be competition killers, which eventually leads to higher prices.

If you might want a place with knowledgeable help, sewing machine support, classes, etc. search out your nearest couple of quilt/sewing shops. Let me toot my own horn in the hopes you are close enough to shop at Sew Simple of Lynchburg VA.

If these shops are limited, or don't have what you want, OR you want something in between for some combination of price/selection/knowledge/customer support, look for independent quilt/fabric shops that have a good online presence. Like AmyQuilts.com, my online shop.

A great place to not only learn, but to find a list of independent quilt shops is a FB group called "Nine Patch a Day" run by Karen Montgomery. She's a Jaftex brand ambassador, former quilt shop owner, a fabulous quilting instructor (a little traditional for some in fabric taste), a Creative Grids Ruler designer, and runs an educational retreat for shop owners- Sewposium. There's about 55 shops she works with including me. All of these cooperating shops have online stores, run special programs, and are committed to customer service. (If they don't do good customer service, they don't get to stay a "Sewposium shop" for long!) 

I know pricing is usually a main concern, but it's nearly impossible to have quality products, knowledgeable suppliers, and good employees to help, without paying a bit more. What's that old slogan? "We cost a bit more, but we're worth it!"

What do you think? Am I off base? Be kind, but let me know in the comments.

Happy stitching,

Cheap Thread is No Bargain

 As we do for all new machine customers, I had an embroidery machine lesson the other day with the owner of a new Janome 500e. 

The owner is a delight and eager to learn, but when I saw the thread set he brought in, I cringed. It's a super cheap thread with claims of it being great and trash both in the reviews on Amazon where it usually is purchased. I think it's junk, but didn't want to start off with any negativity.

So I proceeded with my lesson. After going through threading and other basics, we moved to editing and combining designs on the machine. Then of course, we needed to stitch something out. I love doing lettering for a first lesson an an embroidery machine as large letters make for a great explanation of tension.

Top tension here is too tight.

Off we went, stitching with my student's thread. I was hoping to be wrong. Alas, the stitching looked awful. We changed the needle. Tried again. Ugh. So we decided to change the black thread to a different brand of thread in a gold color.

Just look at the difference! The cheap black thread didn't fill the spaces well and it stitched with a lot of loops and noise. What kind of noise? That rattling bobbin sound that makes your finger hover near the start/stop button. We used the same bobbin thread for both stitch outs. 

He said, "This crap is going back to Amazon!" 

This was a case of fast and cheap, but not good.

That thread? Starts with a B ends with -thread. Hate it. Quality is worth it every time.

Troubleshoot a Change in Sewing Machine Tension

A student recently emailed to ask:

I bought a M7 in April. My tension was perfect I didn't have to adjust the tension. Now after 51 hours of quilting my back tension is loose. I have to put it on 3.8 is this normal? I sew on a HP foot

Fine Tune that Thread Tension

It totally can be! The auto tension is just a starting point, especially if using different threads or certain stitches. For instance, the machine will increase your top tension if you set it up through the applications menu for free motion quilting. But if I decide to use a thicker thread than usual (ie: switch to 40wt Aurifil instead of the 50wt I piece with) I might not need the top to be tighter. A slippery, high-shine embroidery thread paired with a spun polyester might not react the same to the tension setting that works great for top and bottom of the same type of thread.

Troubleshoot that Tension Change

Specifically, you are using the HP foot, which means you are just doing straight stitch. You've said your top tension is loose, so that tells me you were seeing bobbin thread on the top and so you reduced it to 3.8. Sometimes needing to loosen the top tension on your standard thread combination for a commonly used stitch, like the straight stitch can indicate that the machine has some lint build up in the tension discs, making it harder for the thread to go through....hence the need to decrease tension. Frustratingly enough, sometimes a wad of lint will cause a lack of tension.

If you consistently find that the tension needs to be changed about the same amount each time, you can go into your settings and change the master tension. On these all digital machines, the numbers tend to be lower for tension than on our more manual Janomes which tend to run at balanced tension on regular sewing thread of 3-4-5, with 4 to 4.5 the most common for most regular sewing threads.

Lock the M7 before threading

Lock that Sewing Machine

Additionally, make sure you are 'locking' your machine for threading. This is something that machines like yours with the automatic presser foot lift must do when threading the top. (Janome 15000, 14000, 12000, M7, M17, 9400/9450, S9 and S7. I'm sure other brands with this kind of system have something similar) It tells the machine to OPEN the tension discs so that the thread can go between them properly. With the automatic presser foot lift being controlled by an electronic servo motor, the traditional link between the presser foot lever and the tension discs isn't as direct as on a simpler machine where threading with the foot up opens the discs. While an extra step, it is totally worthwhile.

Preventative Maintenance for your Sewing Machine It could also be time for a service. 51 hours doesn't seem like a lot, but it actually is! That is actual sewing time. The difference between hours on and time sewing can be ridiculously different. All depends on how you sew. Having bought in April, you are coming up on your 1 year anniversary. A service person can adjust the tension manually, so that it is balanced, without you having to change anything.

Self-Care for your Sewing Machine

Also, if there is lint in the tension springs of the bobbin case, that can cause the bottom tension to be loose. Here's a video that covers this issue below.

By the way, if you enjoy my videos on YouTube, I'd be so grateful if you'd give them a Like, share them with others, and don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss new ones.

Adjust the Bobbin Tension?

Finally, any changes you make to the bobbin case tension will also affect the top tension. It's a balancing act. Typically, we can get a good balanced stitch by just adjusting the top tension. Using 12wt or larger thread in the bobbin call for loosening the bobbin and 80-100wt thread calls for tightening the bobbin. Otherwise, the top can balance it.

Find Janome Education in the AmyQuilts Clubhouse

Want to learn more about your higher-end Janome machine so you too can learn to use it with more creativity and confidence? Want to know how to use all the "bells and whistles?" Check out the AmyQuilts Clubhouse program. Divided into one for sewing and one for embroidery, it's a monthly membership program with a ton of lessons and access to me as a "virtual Janome dealer."

Best wishes for happy stitches,

Does My Sewing Machine Need Oiled?

There are some topics in the sewing and quilting world that are hot button topics. "Should I pre-wash my fabrics?" is one of them and no matter your viewpoint on that, people can make a valid case for answers of yes, no, and sometimes. But another surprising topic, at least to me, is "Does my sewing machine need oiled?"

In the last few years when I'm popping in and out of various sewing machine and quilting groups on Facebook, I've seen this topic come up quite often, and honestly, there is a right and wrong answer. It's very important to the life of your machine to understand that it does need oiling even if you have been told not to oil it.

First, who am I and how do I know the answer? I'm a Janome dealer, machine instructor, and my husband is my Janome certified machine tech. Hubby is also quite a gear head, which means he loves all sorts of machines, modified autos, tractors, etc. He knows his way around mechanical systems.

Yes, your sewing machine needs oiling!

Your embroidery machine and serger too. In fact ALL mechanical systems need lubrication of some sort.

The better question is, "Does my machine need lubricating and is there any of that I can do myself?"

Here's a video on the best form of cleaning and possible lubrication that we can do on our own machines and why. If you check you comments, you'll see plenty of folks who think their machines do not need oiled, including users of the very same machine in the video.

Think about it like that of a vehicle. Most of us know that a car needs oil. Many of us currently even know where to check the oil. But they also need greasing from time to time. When is the last time you lubed your car's chassis? Heck, most people don't even change their own oil these days.

And unlike cars, our machines do not have an oil pan to hold a reservoir of oil. (Some industrial sewing machines do have an oil pan, but that's a different rabbit trail for another time.) Nor are our cars getting a frequent dose of cotton fibers added to that oil. A couple of decades ago, it was more common for the owner of a vehicle, or dad, husband, etc. to spend part of a day changing the oil of their own car. 

But as cars got more complex, with more body panels and electronic components, not to mention fewer family members with mechanical know-how or tools, the rise of oil change businesses boomed.

It's very much the same with our sewing machines.

If you are sewing with a functional antique, there's a good chance you can take care of the oiling if you are so inclined. I define those machines as the all metal machines, most made before the late 1950's or with a similar design. Think of the black bodied Singers and several copycat type machines. In fact you really better learn how to oil it if you don't already, as these machines need frequent oiling. You'll likely want someone else to take care of periodic re-greasing of gears and doing the minor adjustments to the various systems to keep it running as long as possible.

Machines got more complex around the 60's. Think of  the Singer Touch and Sew in its many versions. Machines around this period started using plastic gearing which was seen as so wonderful as it quieted down the chattering of all metal gearing, especially those which weren't lubricated enough and/or didn't get their gears adjusted as they began to wear. While many owners of these machines were told it would last forever, the care or lack of care those machines get are really starting to show and parts for 60-70 year old machines are hard to source.

Then we start to see the addition of plastic body panels and electronics and the idea of the average user oiling and maintaining their own machines started to give way to the periodic servicing by a sewing machine technician. When a sewist or quilter says they were told that they their machine doesn't need oiling, what likely should have been explained is that the regular servicing or preventative maintenance that should be done takes care of the need to oil by the user.

We also started to see a larger range of features and styles in the sewing machine market as the industry began to transition away from "A sewing machine in every home." Just like we were seeing in the workplace, and family composition, machines stretched across the spectrum of basic, functional machines for clothing and mending to the first computerized home sewing machine (a Janome) with more features for both function and fun, and then to the home embroidery machine (also a Janome). As more electronics were used, and I LOVE my electronic features, the industry did not want someone oiling areas that didn't need oil, or breaking something while getting the covers off. This may be what gave rise to the idea that the machines didn't need oiled, when in fact, they do need lubrication from a trained professional as part of an annual service.

As the insides of machines began to vary more, there were fewer owners who knew exactly how to service their machines. Even as the internet has sprouted all sorts of DIY tutorials, there are still plenty of things that just can't be taught via video or at least via a free video. That's assuming that the 'teacher' actually knows what they are doing. We spend thousands of dollars each year to get training on current models with Janome.

This range of not only function but also machine models made for various price-points across this spectrum  affects manufacturing and machine design. Which in turn affects the method and frequency of needed maintenance. Not to mention, like cars, we are less likely to do the rather nasty work of removing old icky grease and replacing it with fresh grease. Seriously, some of the filth we've seen inside machines would shock you.

Here's an example of a neglected machine.

This comes down to whether bushings or bearings were used, the presence or absence of wicks, and to some extent the types of materials used in the making of these machines.

Wherever two pieces of metal rub together, lubrication is needed to prevent wear/friction and/or to remove dirt and such that would interfere with the turning of the gears together. The common points for this in a sewing machine are gears and the places where shafts are held in position so they can spin (turning a gear) or slide to and fro (a lateral or vertical motion versus spinning) like the needle bar going up and down, and in some cases, both.

I almost wish I didn't have my husband Eric to ask about these things. The answers get a lot more complex! Did you know that often in sewing machines, the lubricating of gears isn't for the sole reason of two parts rubbing together? Nope. Gear grease (especially when composite gears are used) is used primarily to help remove dirt and debris from between the teeth of the gears. If the grease isn't removed and replaced with fresh grease periodically, the debris (primarily lint and dust) will begin to form a crusty putty-like substance that will slow down and eventually stop your machine.

At the places where a shaft is held in place while it turns or slides, there are 3 methods used to prevent wear and only one of them doesn't need replenishment of lubrication. These 3 are: the use of oil or grease on a bushing, use of a material that is porous (also on a bushing) and holds onto oil, and finally the use of sealed ball bearings.

Essentially, it comes down to the use of bushings or bearings. Sealed ball bearings do not need lubrication as long as they are in the correct position and remain sealed. They are the best way to protect shafts from friction on high speed, higher end machines. We see these routinely in Janome's Professional series machines like the 6700P, 6600P, the HD9 straight stitch machines, as well as in the new Continental M7 and M17 machines and 15000, etc. This is also the more expensive method, so we don't see this on lower end or economy model machines, no matter the brand. Many of these models will have bushings in less important or lower speed/pressure areas.

Unlike bearings, bushings are essentially a cradle or collar for the shaft to keep it in place while the shaft moves. We see plain bushings the most in classic functional antique machines. The bushings in these old machines need regular oiling and are typically easy to get to for oiling. They may be exposed (like the gears underneath an old machine in a wooden base), or have holes in the metal casing above these points for oiling.

For bushings in more modern machines, an oil absorbing material is used. The price point and brand typically dictate the type of material used. For mid range and higher machines where bushings are often used, many brands use felt 'wicks' to slowly deposit oil onto the bushing area.

For a few brands, a special porous metal (silica bronze) is used especially in their higher end models. For many low end machines, a type of powdered Aluminum is used in the bushing area. This powder is formed into a metal using high pressure and then loaded with oil. For machines using silica bronze, a strong metal, eventually they will need to be re-loaded with oil by a service person. For machines using the cheaper powdered aluminum method, ideally they would need re-loading of oil, but often the models this method is used on have other wear issues and a price point similar to the cost of the service. 

Most modern (post 1950's models) domestic sewing machines no longer need extensive oiling by the user, though if the machine has a wick under the bobbin case, it's a great place to check if oil could be added. Almost all (I can't speak to other brands or lower end machines sold by the big box stores) Janome drop-in bobbin machines have a wick under the bobbin case area that can be oiled with sewing machine oil occasionally. If it looks white and dry, a drop or two is all it needs. (See the above video)

When machines are properly serviced, they get oiled (Many Janome machines have multiple wicks that the service person will load with oil), the old gear grease gets removed and replaced with new grease-type lubrication. The longevity of your machine is mostly determined by how well is it kept clean and lubricated. Long term lack of lubrication will result in wear of shafts and gears that are expensive to replace. 

We recommend you clean under the bobbin case every few bobbins, add a drop or two of oil to the wick under the bobbin case if it looks dry and a good servicing annually for your machine as a rule of thumb. Those who run a cottage industry or sew daily may want to have their machine serviced more frequently. For the average hobbyist, the machine won't need oil between services.

Servicing is more than cleaning and lubrication. It also includes testing and adjusting several of the mechanical systems for best performance. Some of these adjustments include:

• Hook timing
• Feed dog timing
• Height of feed dogs
• Gear lash
• Needle centering
• Needle to hook clearance
• Needle bar height
• Shaft alignment
• Belt tightening or replacement
• Stitch width centering
• Stitch balance
• and of course, tension adjustment!

Whew! A long answer to what seems a simple question.

Additionally, if a machine sits for a few years or more, it should get a service before it gets used again. The oil used in sewing machines is very light and the lint and dust can soak it all up.