Quilting with Rulers: Double Curved Frame

Since my machine decided to start cooperating since my last post (Thank for all the tips and/or commiseration!) I was able to get some free motion ruler work done on my ruler work sampler.

I'm using the Janome ruler foot combination on my Janome 8200.

This is a large setting triangle along the side of my quilt to set 12 inch blocks. I had originally planned to run a curved ruler along the two shorter sides and do curved cross hatching. But even though I have 4 rulers long enough to reach across those 12 inch sides, I decided to do a design that uses a smaller, shorter ruler.

I decided to do it this way because the larger rulers are not usually the rulers that most domestic machine quilters start off with. They're harder to maneuver, more expensive than smaller rulers, and while it's good to eventually have at least one, they're less common. I also had done the same design around the center block of this quilt, so repeating it is good design sense- even for this very eclectic quilt.

The 'frame' of this design is done by using a smaller curve, in this case I used the QPC #10, but other rulers that would work great are the QPC #8, #12, the Westalee 12 inch arc/straight ruler that comes with their foot, the Westalee 8 inch arc, as well as the 12 inch arc, and other templates long enough to span from corner to center edge of a 12 inch block. In case you're wondering, a 12 inch arc is not long enough to stretch from corner to adjacent corner on a 12 inch block and the curve is too deep.

Then I echoed the frame 1/2 inch to the inside to make a great frame around two sides of the triangle. Next is to fill inside the frame. I want to do curved crosshatching here somehow, but it really doesn't work with the double scallop of the sides. I did straight crosshatching instead at a 1/2 inch spacing.

There's the last spot of trouble I had with my machine. I did go back and fix it.

Since this is a setting triangle in a quilt set on point, it looks like diagonal crosshatching, but is actually straight crosshatching. Why does that matter? It means that you can't use the method for reducing backtracking when crosshatching on the diagonal. (I show this in my class on Craftsy, Quilting with Rulers on a Home Machine. That's a 25% off link!)

The next one of these I do, I'll make sure to mark down the center and maybe a few registration lines to keep the diagonal lines looking more centered down the block. I'll also do some variations in the other setting triangles like I did with the quilt's corners, where the frame is the same, but the inside is done differently. I also think this frame would look great with a regular free motion quilting fill in it.

My creative daughter is at it again! This time she created me "a coloring page for grown ups" using a stencil set. With the arrows, it reminds me of Karlee Porter's Graffiti Quilting.

I'm looking forward to getting more done on this quilt and moving on to something new asap. I hope you have a lovely, creative weekend.

Free Motion Quilting: Trouble Shooting

Today, I made sure to prioritize my quilting to be done early in the day instead of letting everything else push it to the side. So proud of myself too for putting this project at the top of my list of things to do. I should knock out this section quickly....stitching along and....

Snarly messes of top thread. Ugh.

I got stubborn and kept stitching here and it went back to good stitches!

I have this issue every once in a while. Still haven't solved it. Can't get the machine to do it when I take it to the dealer (had the same issue on my old machine too) and my hubby who is pretty knowledgeable when it comes to sewing machines can't quite figure it out either.

Can you see the loop of top thread going around the bobbin thread?

I have two theories:

1. The needle is piercing the 'working' thread as the stitch is being formed. The working thread is the length of thread that is pulled around the bobbin case with each thread. Any one point on the thread gets pulled down into the bobbin case many times before finally laid down as a stitch. I try to avoid this by not stitching directly backward (pulling quilt towards myself). But this usually results in broken thread.
2. The plies of top thread for some reason are coming apart and the hook is grabbing only part of the thread to form a stitch. I used to think this was only with a thick thread and maybe my hook was damaged or just a tiny bit out of time. But, no damage, and this issue comes and goes with no rhyme or reason and with different threads.

It's very annoying. Most of the time, the thread doesn't break. The stitches look awful for a bit and will most of the time straighten itself out and I could keep stitching. In fact, I even shot a video of this for you, but Youtube is loading slow for me tonight. This is the same thread and quilt that I've been quilting on with no issues for quite some time.

After shooting the video, I turned my machine off and did something else for an hour or so. When I started stitching again, there was absolutely no issues. Go figure.

Using quality polyester thread- a little slippery, maybe a thread net would help. I even spooled off several meters in case the thread was defective. Threaded properly, tension good in between episodes, and I'm experienced enough to not have issues to to jerky hands. Good needle, etc.

Just goes to show that even when you're an experienced quilter, things still go wrong now and then. So if you are just starting, don't give up when having trouble. Change a setting, thread, needle, tension, foot height, etc. and see if that helps. But sometimes this free motion quilting is just so different from the sewing that these machines were designed to do, that you might have occasional mystery issues.

Free Motion Quilting with Rulers Video: Baptist Fan Template Demo

Last week I shot a video demonstration of the TopAnchor Baptist Fan Rotating Template for the maker of these templates at their request. It's a bit of a tricky template for those of us who move the quilt instead of the machine to free motion quilt, but they were getting questions about using it with sit down long arms and since they use the frame mounted variety when developing their templates, they asked me to demo it.

I've told the company that I find it tricky, thus I wasn't sure I'd recommend the template for use with stationary machines, since this design can be done with other methods, but if you did a lot of this design, which is great for a cuddly quilt, you might find it an excellent help.

The closer to the center anchor point, the harder it is to use, but being able to use one template for this design is pretty awesome. If I were to use it, I'd start farther out from the center and if need be, use a different design to fill in the center.

For a frame mounted long arm, I bet this thing is awesome!

Now I'm off to go quilt on my ruler work sampler. I even have the new TopAnchor Celtic Knot template prototypes to play with. I can't wait to get these listed in the shop! I may offer them as a pre-sale option. I started this sampler for my Craftsy class, Quilting with Rulers on a Home Machine (25% off discount link there) and it is just ridiculous that I have yet to finish it!

By the way, I totally revamped the shop for easier navigation last week. I'd love to hear what you think of the new design.

Celtic Knot Templates!

I am so excited about these Celting Knot Templates from TopAnchor! I'm going to tease you with this picture until later this week as it's such a beautiful day here that we're taking the kids up to the Blue Ridge Parkway for some hiking and fun.

The bigger size is one I used in my Craftsy class (25% off discount link!) and it will be available towards the end of the month. You can't see it in this picture, but there are 1/4 inch markings along the straight side and the half circle, so it is very versatile!